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I am not responsible for any damages or modifications of any type to your vehicle. This site is for informational purposes only!

KW Variant 2 Coilovers

Abstract - Large rims look great but creates a horrible wheel gap. I actually got in on a Group Buy for the H&R Cupkit but they ran out of stock so I canceled. I also saw that the results from the Cupkit was still a bit higher than I wanted. Another GB came out for KW V2 coils and I had heard great things, so that is how I ended up with them.

Purchase - Bought in a GB through Rennsport for $1120.

Parts - Front shock and spring assemblies, front end links, rear shocks, rear springs, rear spring perches, damping adjuster tool, height adjuster tool.

A new rear shock mount is suggested:

BMW P/N: 33-52-6-754-096 - E46Convertible/M3 Rear Shock Mount x 2

BMW P/N: 33-52-1-128-734 - Washer Gasket x 2

BMW P/N: 51-71-8-413-359 - Z3 Reinforcement Plate x 2

Here is a picture of the shock mounts, that everyone online seems to be posting.

Installation - I followed the DIY instructions on E46Fanatics and MY330i. I started out with the rears because they were easier.

I have never jacked up the car before with the exception of using the stock jack to change out a wheel. I went to purchase a cheap two ton jack with two jack stands. It took me about 20 minutes to learn how to use it quickly and effectively. First, raise the jack so its just shy of the car's frame height. Then slide it under the mount point for the car. For the front it is this round metal spot right behind the engine cover. For the rear it is the rear differential. Now, jack up the car as high as you need to put the jack stands under the factory points. Then release the jack so that the car is only using the two jack stands as support. Shake the car to see if its sturdy.

Rears

When I tried to install the rear coils, I realized that you must need a spring compressor to remove the rear springs. They are just way too compressed even with the shocks removed to pop out. The rears took me about 6 hours including time to run to AutoZone to rent a free spring compressor.

Even after the spring compressor, I had to use the stock mini jack to further expand the opening to finally remove the stock springs.

A closer look at the rear suspension. The silver bar are UUC Sway Barbarians.

Keep the stock rubber piece from the top assembly for reuse with new springs.

Remove the stock rubber piece on the lower platform. The adjuster piece has a built in rubber piece.

Once the stock spring and shocks are out. You can install the new set.

Prepare the new rear shocks by installing the shock mounts on the end of the shock.

Then install the new springs and then the shocks. The shock mounts should perfectly fit into the frame.

Tighten everything up and do the other side. The learning curve on these types of installs are exponential. Once you do one, you can do the next one in no time!

To adjust the rear stiffness, you have to rotate the shock when it is off the car.

Fronts

The fronts were harder but took less time once I knew what I was doing. The hardest and more dangerous part was to removing the spring off of the stock assembly. Since the whole front assembly is held together by a single nut, it will go flying like a bullet if the spring isn't compressed enough. Unfortunately, I had a crappy spring compressor so it could not do the job well. Both times I removed the nut from the assembly, the spring got launched across the parking lot about 50 feet away. It is very dangerous, make sure you have a good spring compressor! Once that part was off, the rest of the install was easy.

The new front springs and shocks came pre assembled. Attach the old shock mount to the top of this assembly. I could not use my spring compressor because it did not fit. I just used my hands and were able to compress the springs enough to attach the new ends.

Then I installed the assembly into the front. The main problem now was that the nut at the top could not be tighten because there was not enough force to hold the shock rod. There is supposed to be this tool that can hold the outer nut while rotating the inner rod. Anyway, I wedged in a small wrench and used the weight of the car to counter act the rod from turning. It worked wonders.

To adjust the front stiffness, KW has supplied a small tool.

The tool has a small insert that rotates the knob at the top of the assembly. This can be done without removing the shocks.

Impressions - I installed both the fronts and rears at the lowest setting. The lowest setting meant less compressed springs which made the install much easier. Here are some pictures of my car at the lowest setting.

I turned the front wheels to the limit and checked clearance for my 18 x 8.5 wheels.

No rubbing issues on either side.

A little bit further away.

Less than a finger gap in the rear.

The yellow painted suspension adds a nice touch.

A shot from the corner...

...one from the side...

Conclusions - I was primarily concerned with the ride quality being much more harsh that OEM after I upgraded to coils. That was not the case with KW V2 coils. The install took me about 12 hours and I have never done a suspension upgrade. I was also able to install dustless brake pads at the same time. Most importantly I learned a lot about how the suspension is designed in the E46.