DISCLAIMER:

I am not responsible for any damages or modifications of any type to your vehicle. This site is for informational purposes only!

Custom Computer Version 3

After building two previous car computers, I've learned a lot about applications and environments that mobile computing needs. The hardest part of the car computing project has been letting go and removing the previous versions of the car computer knowing that something newer and better is out. Lots of times, I'll feel attached to something I've built since it took so much time and hard work even though something newer, faster, and smaller has been released.

The Custom Computer Version 3 is actually very simple compared to version 1 and 2.

The key points include:

1. Laptop Computer Form Factor - Fast P4 machines, cooler, built-in cooling system, built-in UPS + battery, built-in wired + wireless LAN, cheaper, etc.

2. 7inch Touchscreen LCD - Smaller, cheaper, RCA inputs

3. Existing USB Subsystem - GPS, WiFi, other input devices

Display - Xenarc 7inch Touchscreen VGA LCD

Building a mount for the computer display is the hardest part of the install. These are normal everyday cabinet drawer rails from Home Depot. They are just pieces of hardened steel rolling on ball bearings.

I made some measurements, marked it with a Sharpie, wrapped the rail with packaging tape, and used a hacksaw to cut through the rails.

Using a large file, I cleaned off the edges so I wouldn't get any nasty splinters

Here is a shot of my work space, during breaks I shoot some pool.

Here is a closer view of the plastic console piece and the LCD.

Luckily, the rail fit perfectly. Usually this doesn't happen until the 5th try.

I used machine screws of various sizes from Home Depot to secure the rail to the plastic console.

Using a cordless drill, I made two holes, one on each far end of the plastic console.

The machine screw fits like a glove, not to short not too long.

Here is the outer rail fitted against the plastic console.

A side view shows roughly how the rail will sit against the plastic console.

Here is a shot from the other side. Everything is lined up and ready to go.

In order to access some of the buttons located on the plastic console, I had to use a Dremel tool to extend the opening in the outer rail.

Now the DSC and HK buttons can be accessed while the rail is mounted.

Here is a closer shot of the opening.

Because of clearance issues, I had to add a few screw nuts to accommodate for the LCD.

Here is a picture of the inner rail and the ball bearings.

Here is the whole rail assembly in one piece. The center vertical oval hole is for the LCD.

Here is the rail when extended to the right.

This is the same rail mounted into the car.

The rail is able to extend a good amount to the right side. Once the inner ball bearing assembly hits the side of the trim piece, it acts as a mechanical stop.

A simple machine screw and nut holds the inner rail to the LCD.

Here is what the LCD looks like mounted into the car. The top of the LCD sits flush with the top navigation unit. The shifter is about 1/4 inch from the screen.

There is enough friction against the LCD such that the rail does not move on hard cornering.

Can't access the buttons? Move the LCD to the right and it uncovers the left side buttons. I don't adjust the climate control very often nor do I turn off DSC or HK, so it really doesn't bother me.

Slide the LCD to the left to uncover the right side buttons.

Here is a closer shot of the right side, once the ball bearing assembly hits the mount screw, it automatically stops the rail from over extending.

Next Time - P4 Laptop